Finding a Reset on the Coppermine River
323 kilometres, 18 people, 18 days, and an unforgettable trip.
As the engines of the Twin Otter float plane spooled up, all I could think about was how unprepared for this trip I felt. I had been prepping right up until the last hour before departure, but still felt anxious about being away from my everyday life for so long. This 18-day canoe trip would be the longest and most difficult trip I have supported to date.
I arrived at Air Tindi’s float base feeling stressed and overwhelmed. On top of my work stress, I was nervous about the river itself. I had flipped in whitewater on the Keele River last year, and I haven’t paddled another river since then. The Coppermine is classified as an advanced whitewater river which comes with risks. Its powerful water has claimed lives in the past.
Over the next 18 days, our group would paddle 323 kilometres from just north of the Northwest Territories border to the Arctic Ocean at Kugluktuk, Nunavut. I couldn't anticipate just how much this trip would change my outlook, and before we ever reached the ocean.
The first few days were an adjustment for all of us, but we settled into a routine of expedition life: waking up early, packing our boats, paddling, setting up camp, cooking meals and doing it all again the following morning. I realized early on that I was missing some critical pieces of gear that would have made this experience so much more comfortable. Note to self: make sure the dry-suit you are borrowing fits before departing on a half-month trip to the Arctic Circle!
We endured cold, rainy days, with challenging headwinds and perpetually wet gear; Did I mention I didn’t have a dry-suit? But we also took in so many beautiful, sunny days with moments that reminded us why Coppermine was such a special river to paddle. Caribou wandered along the riverbanks, a lone muskox was spotted grazing in the distance, and the river was a birder’s delight. The landscape itself continued to transform around every bend, offering a new breathtaking sight.
It's a powerful feeling to be on the river for such an extended time. Life gets a little simpler. Your regular day-to-day routine and the priorities that came with that are no longer at the forefront of your thoughts. You worry about staying warm, getting down the river safely, finding a suitable campsite, and making dinner. The immediate experience of being on the Land and sharing the journey with the people around you keeps you present.
Saying the Coppermine River’s landscapes were extraordinary is an understatement. We paddled through wide valleys, past dramatic cliffs, rugged rock formations, and into beautiful stretches of river surrounded by rolling green hills. We had a geologist among us who took on a full-time job of answering the endless questions relating to the rocks around us. If you plan on canoeing the Coppermine, bringing a geologist is highly recommended!
As we moved further downriver, the whitewater became more intense. Our first named rapid, Rocky Defile, had already been on my mind for weeks before this trip. The name alone doesn’t inspire a ton of confidence. When we finally arrived, the canyon looked every bit as intimidating as I had imagined. After scouting our route, my paddling partner Nina and I committed to our line. Whether or not we actually nailed that line is up for debate. We encountered a few large wave trains and finished with a boat full of water, but we made it through safely. I remember the sense of relief I felt afterwards. The stress and worry I had been carrying with me was finally behind us.
Over the next several days, we navigated countless unnamed rapids, along with a few named ones: Muskox Rapids, Sandstone Rapids, “the Staircase” and Escape Rapids. Our boat pairings worked together to pick lines, communicate and make decisions. There were definitely moments where we had to use every bit of concentration we had in the tough “techy” whitewater, but there were also moments of excitement and fun in the less hazardous sections. I started to really trust in my own abilities, my paddling partners, and the skills we had developed throughout the expedition.
Some of my favourite memories had very little to do with paddling. Catching my first Arctic Char, taking an icy swim beneath a waterfall, and sharing stories around camp all stand out to me. There were kitchen dance parties on cold, rainy evenings, fly fishing lessons from our guide and my friend Jacob, and a lot of laughter the whole way.
It was also the people who made the trip what it was. Spending 18 days together in a remote environment creates a different kind of connection. Camp life requires a high level of cooperation. The more we learned to rely on one another, the smoother and more efficient our days became.
By the time we reached the final stretches of the Coppermine, I noticed my mindset had changed. I started the trip feeling overwhelmed by everything waiting for me back home, but along the river, those worries quieted. The work and responsibilities hadn't disappeared, but I gained perspective. I felt calm, and that calmness helped me stay present with the experiences happening in front of me. One of the most remarkable things about spending time on the Land is just that, staying present in it. It doesn't take away the challenges we face in our everyday lives, but it can change how we approach them. Being removed from usual routines and expectations gave us opportunities to slow down and reconnect with each other, ourselves, and the Land.
As someone who supports land-based programming through my work with the NWT Recreation and Parks Association, I see the value these experiences bring to all participants. The Coppermine was a personal reminder of why this work matters. The most meaningful outcomes of getting people out on the land are difficult to measure. They show up in increased confidence, stronger relationships, new skills and new perspectives.
After 323 kilometres, 18 days and countless incredible moments, we eventually arrived at the Arctic Ocean in Kugluktuk. The end of a trip like this is always bittersweet. I would soon be returning to my routine, but I would return feeling refreshed, stronger, and with the memory of a lifetime.
Sometimes, all it takes is a river, a canoe and a little time on the land to remind you what really matters.
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