Riding the Keele: Rapids, Moose, and a Hotdog Suit

Two weeks on the Keele River will give you more than sore shoulders; it will hand you stories you will be telling for years. This trip was part of the Leadership Development Program, bringing youth from across the Northwest Territories together to develop their on-the-land leadership skills while canoeing down the Keele. Our journey began with weather delays in Norman Wells, the sort of rain that makes you question why you even packed sunscreen. While waiting out the rain, we visited the Norman Wells Historical Centre and learned about the Canol Trail, a rugged route born out of WWII, built to carry oil from the Yukon to the Mackenzie River. It carved through mountains, muskeg, and some of the harshest terrain in the North. Finally, when the weather broke and the skies cleared, the bush planes were ready to whisk us away, ferrying us deep into the wild heart of the Keele River.

When we finally touched down at the Keele-Natla confluence, it felt like stepping into another world; wild mountains, glacial waters, and a river that wasted no time testing us. Donald and I were unstoppable until we weren’t. An unexpected side wave and surprise boil tipped us, and suddenly we were swimming. I surfaced minus a rain jacket, sunglasses, and a bit of pride. Morale returned later that night with the now-legendary hotdog suit reveal.

Each day followed a steady rhythm: wake up, breakfast, tear down camp, paddle, lunch, paddle again, set up camp, dinner, and finally, time to relax; but the moments that stuck with me were unforgettable: wolves howling at dusk at the Toochingkla-Keele confluence, lining through the notorious “boat-sucking boil” during a downpour, visiting the sacred Red Dog site where we gave thanks for safe passage, discovering a rusty old axe on a gravel bar, and catching my first-ever bull trout on a perfect sunny evening. Moose sightings, geocache finds, and long stretches of braided river where the landscape shifted from mountains to forest added to the magic.

Not every day was smooth; cold rain, muscle cramps, and a spectacular shoe-eating mud incident tested us; but the river had a way of giving back what it took. One day it was a long beach of wild strawberries, another it was a flawless wave train that had us laughing like kids.

We finished at the confluence with the Mackenzie River, where we traded paddles for jet boats and sped to Tulita for a feast, a drum dance, hand games, and a taste of local warmth and generosity. The trip closed with an emotional awards night in Norman Wells, a celebration of individuals and everyone’s unique contributions to the team. While the journey was focused on teamwork, it was special to recognize each person’s individual efforts and spirit, shining brighter than any campfire.

I came home with sore muscles, a sunburned lip, a reclaimed rusty axe, and a heart full of gratitude. The Keele left its mark—in stories, friendships, and a lasting reminder that sometimes the river flips you, and other times it gifts you the best day of your life.

A huge thank you to Northern Youth Leadership for organizing this incredible trip, to Black Feather – The Wilderness Adventure Company for expertly guiding us through the wild, to Ecology North and the NWT Recreation & Parks Association for their support, and to the Hamlet of Tulita for their generous hosting and warm welcome. This journey wouldn’t have been possible without all of you.

Photo Courtesy of David Brinstion, Brandon Mack, and Hannah Spencer.